By Hannah Coates
Hannah Martin, bridal makeup pro, talks to VOGUE about the perfect wedding look
One makeup artist who has played a key role in countless beautiful bridal moments is Hannah Martin. She is considered the expert on getting Kate Middleton and numerous other members of the royal family to look perfect at her wedding in 2011. She calls 2021 the year of the "DIY bride" as many women have chosen to do their wedding makeup themselves due to Covid. Now she reveals her tips and tricks to VOGUE.
In 9 steps to the ideal bridal make-up
How to decide on your look"My advice to brides: avoid being too experimental or straying too far from your normal look Find a picture of yourself that you look good in and try to create a similar makeup look If you want to do your own makeup, there is a wealth of information about bridal makeup up, from makeup artists on Instagram to YouTubers to the excellent articles in VOGUE showcasing aspiring brides and how to mimic elements of their look."
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Start with skin care"Achieving perfect makeup that lasts is a gradual process - and it's better to take the long way than to try quick fixes that end up disappointing you. That starts In order for the make-up to last as long as possible, the skin must be freshly exfoliated the evening before so that no dead skin cells are deposited on the surface of the skin, which could affect the hold of the foundation.
Lots of light layers are better than a very heavy moisturizer, which can bring too much oil to the skin's surface, causing foundation to run. Begin by cleansing, then apply an essence—something light, water-based—to hydrate the skin. Follow with an eye cream and then a medium-weight moisturizer such as Bobbi Brown's 'Vitamin Enriched Face Base' or Charlotte Tilbury's 'Magic Cream Light'. Avoid wearing extra SPF and instead choose a conditioner that contains it - it may reflect in photos."
The best base for your foundation"I always like to tell the bride that just because it's her wedding day doesn't mean you have to wear more makeup. One thing that works for any skin type is the 'face & Body' by MAC. I often start with a thin layer and then build up coverage with foundation if needed. My holy grail is Bobbi Brown's 'Foundation Stick' as you can use it to get desired coverage in areas like around the cheeks or around the nose and chin with a small, firm brush such as Hourglass' Concealer Brush Another good foundation is Armani's Luminous Silk as it suits all skin types while brides who want a little more coverage should use Lancôme 'Teint Idole'. After patting the foundation in until it's absorbed, I like to use my fingers to wipe away any excess makeup."
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Powder is your best friend"On your wedding day, you must use powder! Many brides are reluctant to use it, thinking it makes skin look heavy and cakey and doesn't bring the radiant glow they desire - but it does You can also achieve this with powder It is important that the powder is applied to the T-zone, i.e. in the middle of the forehead and between the eyebrows - if you shine in this area, you will see a white spot in your photos, that looks like sweat. Matte the sides of the nose, the triangle around the mouth, the upper lip and the chin. I don't recommend the baking technique as it greatly mattes the skin and actually makes it look flat. Products like this Laura Mercier's iconic 'Translucent' powder or By Terry's 'Hyaluronic Hydra-Powder' are great for mattifying the skin around the T-zone."
Setting spray works - but only if used correctly"While I believe in the effectiveness of setting spray, there is a major flaw: as mentioned, you have to follow best practices to get to this point A setting spray won't magically set your makeup if you've messed it up or didn't use powder that creates a strong barrier for oil penetration.I like Urban Decay's 'All Nighter Setting Spray' ."
How you blush"When it comes to blush, I always apply layers. I first apply a layer of cream blush and then dab it onto the cheekbones. When I cover the rest of the face with powder, I apply one very light hint of a similarly toned powder blush over it."
The Soft Smokey Eye Look 101"Look at weddings from the past, like Grace Kelly's, and you'll see that makeup like that doesn't age. On the other hand, if you're going for a heavy cut- If you choose crease eyeshadow you run the risk of looking back ten years from now and thinking it looks foreign.My advice is to go for a subtle smokey eye for the day.For this I use much lighter tones than for a stereotypical smokey eye in the evening - think soft taupes with a peachy crease or mid-grey colors, both of which are timeless. I encourage brides to go for something fresh, pretty and elegant for a look that is timeless."
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Go for a soft look"Too much eyeliner makes the eyes appear smaller. While I'm a pro-eyeliner—I use a black shade on almost all brides—I make sure to line very thinly. The trick is there In drawing it along the outer three-quarters of the eye, with a slight extension at the outer corner of the eye, not as a wing, just slightly longer than the eye itself, because everyone looks beautiful with a larger eye shape , gently blend in a darker powder to create a softer, finer line. Once the liquid liner is set, gently blend in a darker powder to create a softer look."
The Perfect Nude"I recommend choosing a nude lipstick that doesn't look too close to your natural lip color - that way it doesn't look out of place. The secret is always to apply a liner that matches your natural lip color, and not the lipstick - so if the lipstick wears off you have a base to wear until the next touch-up I always finish with Clarins 'Lip Perfector', a lovely tinted lip balm that leaves all lips looking supple "It keeps them from looking dry and chapped, but it's nowhere near as sticky as a lip gloss. I find this looks better on a bride than totally matte lips, which can look flat and feel uncomfortable."
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